Although often associated with the glamour of K-pop and advanced technology, Seoul offers a much deeper charm, especially when draped in the golden hues of autumn.
That morning, I arrived at Incheon International Airport. As I crossed the bridge towards the train tracks, the crisp autumn air and clear sky greeted me. A comfortable ride on the APEX train took me directly to Hongdae (Hongik University Station). Once there, I dropped off my luggage at the hotel lobby to explore the city more freely. Stepping back onto the streets, I found Hongdae bustling with energy, filled with colourful murals, trendy shops, themed cafes, and the music of street performers adding to the lively atmosphere.
After lunch, I proceeded to my first destination: Gyeongbokgung Palace. As the largest palace of theJoseon Dynasty, Gyeongbokgung showcases the grandeur of traditional Korean architecture set against the backdrop of Bugaksan Mountain. Upon entering the main Gwanghwamun Gate, I was greeted by the solemn royal guard changing ceremony— the second session takes place at 2 p.m — featuring bright traditional costumes and the resonant beat of drums. Inside, the vast courtyards and pavilions, adorned with green and red wooden details, made me feel as if I had been transported back in time.
From there, my journey continued to Changdeokgung Palace, another captivating palace situated 1.5 km from Gyeongbokgung. Ginkgo leaves fell like confetti along the path, framing the classical architecture with a natural golden hue. From the main courtyard, I headed northeast to the Secret Garden, a hidden oasis once accessible only to the royal family. It felt as though I had stepped into an ancient painting, where time moved more slowly and every detail evoked a sense of peace.
Later that afternoon, I headed to Yeouido Hangang Park. As the air grew colder, I rushed to the nearest convenience store to try a small ritual that has become a must-do activity here: making instant ramyun using the automatic machine. The clinking sound of the machine, the savoury aroma of the broth, and the tearing of the plastic packaging all combined to create a unique experience.
I finally brought a steaming bowl of noodles to a wooden bench overlooking the river. The steam warmed my cold hands. Each slurp was comforting, mingling with the breeze that carried the scent of the river and scattered dry leaves. Around me, the atmosphere was lively, young couples sat on mats sharing snacks, children ran chasing soap bubbles, and cyclists glided along the designated path. In the distance, the golden light of the setting sun slowly reflected on the river’s surface, creating a dramatic yet calming view.
As dusk fell, N Seoul Tower on the opposite side of the river lit up with a blue glow—a sign that the city’s air quality was clean and clear—shimmering against the silhouette of Namsan Mountain, seemingly closing the day with a perfect view.
The next morning, I headed to Gangnam. This district is indeed synonymous with skyscrapers, luxury shopping centres, and a bustling metropolitan atmosphere. However, my destination was different— Bongeunsa Temple, a historic temple that stands in stark contrast to the city’s modernity.
Upon stepping into the temple grounds, the world seemed to slow down. Rows of colourful lanterns hung neatly, each inscribed with the prayers of devotees. The scent of Incense filled the air, mingling with the gentle breeze that brought a sense of tranquility. From a distance, I could faintly hear the chanting of prayers, making the atmosphere even more sacred. I stood still for a moment, allowing myself to be absorbed in a silence rarely found amidst Seoul.
In addition to visiting, Bongeunsa offers a temple stay programme—a unique experience that allows visitors to stay at the temple and follow the monks’ schedule. From silent morning meditation to learning how to make lanterns and participating in a traditional tea ceremony, all provide an opportunity to delve deeper into the Zen lifestyle. Although I only had time to walk around the temple grounds, I can imagine how peaceful it would be to return someday and fully participate in the programme.
In the late afternoon, I made my way to Seokchon Lake. The pedestrian path encircling the lake was enchanting, bordered by trees displaying the red, yellow, and orange hues typical of autumn. Along the path, people strolled leisurely while runners passed by at a steady pace. Across the lake, the Lotte World Tower rose majestically, its reflection clearly visible on the gently rippling water. I sat on a bench by the lake, allowing time to pass slowly.
To end the day, I stopped at a small eatery near the station. A bowl of hot kimchi jjigae was served before me, its steam carrying a tempting, spicy, and savoury aroma. Each spoonful felt incredibly warming, helping to fend off the increasingly cold night air. With a full stomach and a contented heart, I returned to my hotel, taking with me the lasting impression of the balance between the hustle of modernity and the stillness of tradition that I had encountered that day.
The following day was solely for a brief escape from the city, heading to Hwadam Forest, a botanical garden about an hour’s journey from Seoul. As soon as I entered this area, it felt as though I had stepped into a different world—silent, peaceful, and bursting with colour. The winding path led me through a tunnel of golden-red trees, while a gentle stream gurgled beside me, blending with the occasional chirping of birds in the distance.
Every turn revealed a new panorama: layers of green, yellow, and orange hills, as if painted with a giant brush. I allowed myself to absorb the fresh, pristine air, which carried the damp scent of fallen leaves. Sunlight filtered through the gaps in the branches, casting dancing shadows on the path.
As the afternoon approached and the sun began to set, casting an orange glow across the sky, I returned to Seoul. In my heart, I was not quite ready to part with the tranquility and beauty of Hwadam Forest—an autumn experience that will always be etched in my memory.
For the last day, I made up my mind to hike in Seoraksan National Park in Gangwon Province—it is said that autumn is the best time for hiking, as rainfall is relatively low and the cool temperatures make the journey more pleasant. Located about 200 km from central Seoul, I took a two-hour journey to the mountain via the Sogongwon Park entrance.
Upon arrival, the mountains appeared ablaze with hues of red, gold, and orange. The fresh mountain air carried the damp scent of autumn leaves. My footsteps led me along a path winding between ancient trees and a river, eventually arriving at the majestic Bronze Buddha statue. Its towering figure stood like a guardian of the forest, offering a moment to pause and reflect before entering the main trail. Shortly afterwards, the roof of Sinheungsa Temple, adorned with distinctive carvings, came into view from a distance.
As a beginner in hiking, I chose the Ulsanbawi Course, a popular route that can be completed in two to three hours. The path passes through unique granite formations, small streams, and a tranquil waterfall, creating a peaceful and magical atmosphere. Every step towards the summit felt heavy, but the desire to witness the panoramic view from the top gave me strength. Finally, I arrived at Ulsanbawi Rock, its sturdy granite surface contrasting with the colourful expanse of surrounding trees.
From the summit, layered mountains stretched to the horizon, with the sparkling East Sea visible far in the distance. This moment reminded me of the essence of a journey: to challenge oneself in order to witness a beauty that can only be revealed directly by the universe.
With a heart full of memories and a camera that captured them all, I realized that this journey was a reminder of the beautiful contrasts Seoul has to offer. The blend of modernity and tradition, the hustle of the city and the serenity of nature, all merged into an unforgettable experience.